A farangi in Delhi

To be engulfed by the incredible scenes of Delhi by rickshaw is an exhilarating experience; a sensory overload bursting forth, giving the city a vibrant, organic feel. The air, heavy with water, becomes an extension of the ground, so you feel you are pushing through some mass all the time; it’s hot, it’s humid and it’s sticky.

I managed to lose myself down some dark streets deep within the underbelly of Delhi yesterday, see what I did there? Stubbornly refusing to admit I was lost, or going in the wrong direction, I continued, the light abating with every step. But the people were happy, negating the shadows; smiling, shouting at me, ‘Good morning sir!’ ‘Gora, come here!’, going about their daily lives, with no sense of struggle or hardship, no, these Indians were a joy to behold, especially the children. Playing in the water, barefoot, oblivious to the harsh reality (as it appeared to me) around them. Inventing games using only tiny stones on the side of the road; theirs was carefree, uplifting existence.

All kinds of inanimate objects- girders, fresh fruit, wicker baskets, clay pots, loaded onto every mode of transport you could possibly imagine, before setting off, through the mud and puddles, with seemingly no hope of reaching their destination, either the rickety contraptions falling apart entirely or being knocked off them, but I bet those people do make it you know… no pavements, so people walk on the roads, oblivious to the trucks, carts, bikes that go flying by…rickshaws competing for the smallest possible gaps, dusty old buses, crammed full, with no windows or doors, moving at full speed as passengers jump on and off. A cacophony of horns beeping CONSTANTLY. The transport system shouldn’t work, but it does, somehow…

Cows everywhere! Wandering, free, all powerful! Groups of cows simply standing in the streets, it’s an incredible, wonderful sight, it certainly makes me think about how the cows are perceived here, revered. What is the significance of the cow?

It’s been a fascinating, eye-opening first week in Delhi to say the least. The disparity of Delhi to London is far greater than I imagined, I think it’s because the divide between rich and poor is greatly accentuated here, and that only a very small minority of people here are well off, but to the extent of such immense wealth that allows them to live like royalty, not that I’ve found any of these socia-elite Delhiites yet!

I have however, engaged, at least on some level, with a multitude of the Delhi population, of which there are probably 15 million. In my nightmare quest to register as a foreigner living here I also met other similarly unhinged people who have chosen Delhi as their home. An eclectic mix of races, nationalities, colours- Buddhist monks, a Chinese girl (I kept the peace), a student from the Congo, a girl from Tuzbekestan, a highly amusing American guy. I only got to know them due to the 6 hours we spent queuing in the cramped, stale office, watching helplessly as the power cut out maybe at least 10 times, disabling lights, computers, fans-not ideal.

The beauty of Delhi is you learn something new every day…I’m busy observing the head-wiggle at the moment; the Indian sign for agreement, acknowledgement, happiness, just about any positive expression combined into one, continuous, emphatic movement!