Hauz Khas Deer Park

Thought you might like to see the Deer Park right on our doorstep-it is stunning! A huge park with many different areas to explore, the entrance is just at the end of our road in Green Park, and leads into a section with several pathways, covered by trees. These paths wind a mazy way through the undergrowth, and every so often you come across a tomb as below, rising up through the greenery:



All of a sudden the trees dissipate and a fence runs the length of the wide expanse that opens out in front of you, what could this house I wonder? Of course I failed to think the clue could be in the name of the park- DEER!


Over bridges, through more foliage, past the award-winning Belucchi Park restaurant, and the park surprises you again, for as you look left something shimmering catches your eye, the calm, peaceful waters of the enormous reservoir that dominates this section.


Built during the Murghal dynasty in the 14th Century to provide water to the second city of Delhi, called Siri Fort, over 5 kms away (you can still see the ruins of this fort, I see them every day as I work nearby). There are 8 incarnations of Delhi in total (New Delhi bring the last), and the reservoir marks an impressive feat of engineering, especially as it is still standing and teeming with water, wildlife and trees!


Take a stroll round the 'tank' as it is known, past the Indian kids and many courting couples who secretly come to hide underneath the bushes around the reservoir, and you soon spy the ruins rising up from across the water. This is my favourite part of the park-what used to be a mosque, learning centre and tombs of the great leaders who built Hauz Khas.



Nothing is closed off, meaning you can explore every dark passageway, alcove or flight of steps. This would truly make the ultimate paintball setting, as it is the locals bring picnics and prayer mats, a slightly more civilised appreciation of the history around them.





Sitting in one of the many archways with your legs swinging over the edge of a sheer 40 ft drop, looking out over the reservoir at this little slice of paradise, as bright green parrots squawk past and yellow-brown striped squirrels scamper amongst the ruins with consummate ease, it is hard to imagine you are in the capital of India, frantic, chaotic, Delhi. Here, nature and the past have combined to create the perfect haven-Hauz Khas Deer Park.

The New Delhi Heroes

I recently had a trial for the New Delhi Heroes, a football team who play in the Second Division of the Indian National League. Here's what happened:

First off let me just say these were the hardest training sessions I've ever done! Got there at 6am, just getting light in Delhi, the only white guy there, lots of Indians, quite a few Africans, and a Brazilian. And me. There were only 3 of us on trial, the rest were already members of the Heroes!

I'd seen the coach, a guy called Chima Okorie (former Nigerian pro, google him, makes for an interesting read), in a bar a few nights before where he'd been eyeing up Saroj, so I'd been staring back at him! Anyway, he didn't seem to remember me...

I thought he said 'let's play' so started jogging towards the pitch, looked round and everyone else had formed a circle, heads bowed, silent. I suddenly realised he'd actually said 'Let's pray'! So had a little prayer, 'please God let me do well and get offered a contract'etc etc and then we began!

Thorough warm-up, including some ridiculous stretches, how are they all so flexible? Circuit training, in threes, dodging, hopping, jumping, dribbling, sprinting in-between cones, even at 6 in the morning the heat was there, ever-present, so that my top was soaking wet in minutes. Then some faart-lecking round the pitch, where you sprint in groups to the next lot, for a good twenty minutes-absolute killer.

Some ball skills, really good one-touch drills, keep ball, shooting, triangles, pass and move, attack-defence etc etc. Slowly building up into more players on each team, bigger pitch then finally a full size game, but still one touch! Very tricky indeed, great training though...heat was unbearable by now, my lack of fitness showing. The African guys, all stacked, could run all day as could the Indians...

Before the warm-down, more bursts of sprints, by which time I could see stars. To finish, 400 mini sit-ups, and 200 mini press-ups, again, killer. More unbelivable stretch work before collapse and mini heart-failure.

Then they said we'll see you all tomorrow at the same time! F**k me, I thought.
But, went back again at 6 and felt a bit better that day, improving stamina. Different drills, still hard and more good exercises...felt I played alright in the
mini-match, prob 4th best CM there, told us we had a practice match with the Indian Air Force the next day. The standard was high, every player (about 25) was consistently good, especially their first touch, able to spread the ball round with ease, quick, fast etc etc easily the best squad I've trained with, except the Invincibles that is...

Got chatting to the Brazilian, who had just signed a contract. He used to play for Sao Paoulo, said he was mates with Pato and Ronaldihno, chatted to them on MSN!! Then a Ghanian said 'Michael Essien, he is my friend.' I was in awe.

Went to the match, blazing hot afternoon, didn't start, then didn't come on half time, or in the 2nd half, gutted but told I'd get a full game on Tuesday...so once again back at 6am training, definitely able to run round much more and keep up with the game...I was looking forward to the game the next day, until they said it was at 3pm. After training, told them I couldn't make the match as I had a job....a job? they asked, incredulous...yes a job I replied, does noone else work here? This is their job, I was told...

They said I'd get a chance at Saturday game but to be honest I think that's the end of the trial. They train every day, 6-9am, with only Sunday off, and if that was my only job, then fine, I could do it no probs...but seeing as I'm working at Penguin I think to try and do both would destroy me, plus give me no social life, or weekends to go exploring India with Saroj.

It would be great though if that was my job! Training every morning, then the rest of the day off to write...I wonder what they get paid? The first division pays around 100k RS a month, an absolute fortune over here, but I guess the second, where the Heroes play, is considerably less. The Brazilian, who looks a quality striker, told me 'football is my dream', and I know what he means, but for me, for now, I think the dream is over. A lot of fun while it lasted though!

Shantaram and other books on India

When I first read Shantaram two years ago, I felt inspired to experience life in India first-hand. Although as author Gregory Roberts says: 'the characters and the dialogue and the narrative structure are all creations', the descriptive eloquence of the people and places around him is so obviously drawn from real-life that the far-fetched nature of the plot becomes a mere aside to the inherent qualities of Shantaram; the depiction of everyday life in 1980's India, and more specifically, Bombay.

'The colours were vibrant. The fragrances were dizzingly delicious. And there were more smiles in the eyes on those crowded streets than in any other place I'd ever known.'

Roberts writes best when observing the interaction between the dazzling array of Indian and foreign characters in Shantaram, and the city in which they inhabit - the vivid, bustling, beautiful Bombay.

There have been many other books written by foreigners on living in India; Sir Mark Tully's intensely emotional insights immediately spring to mind, William Dalrymple's City of Djinns, Chasing Rainbows in Chennai I have heard, but Shantarm was the first I read about India and as such it had the most profound effect on me (except perhaps Midnight's Children, but then again Salman Rushdie was not writing as an outsider looking in).

I'd be interested to find out which books on India you would recommend, and why? Are the characters in Shantaram an accurate portrayal of Indian people, and life in India? Have reading books like Shantaram enhanced your own experiences of India?